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Discussion in 'Do-It-Yourself & Gear Modifications' started by bushidomosquito, Jul 7, 2011.
Wow, just wow! This would make me want to keep my SAKs.. Nice Work!
Well, if you don't want them then send them to me. I could use the parts.
I'd rather pay you to upgrade them
That works for me. I'm about a week or two out from finishing this one and others.
Carbon fiber and orange G10 with hardware to space the liners apart for finish sanding. Hard to see in the photos but the edges of these liners are hand rubbed down to 800 grit. Almost a mirror polish that would be a shame to ruin with filework, so I won't.
opcorn:Very nice work b.
I've been up all night putting this together. Still need to sand the rivets down and polish the sides but soooo close...
Looks very nice. Can't wait to see the final finished product.
That is one shiny beast :O
First layer on a titanium scale. I made these .005" phosphor bronze washers to keep everything from riding on the liners. There are 32 of them in this knife so there was no way I was going to pay 80 cents each for them. The main blade is one of the thicker pre '07 ones with the crossbow stamp. It was a little scratched so I rubbed it down to 2000 grit and gave it a Flitz polish. The only marks on it now are the ever present fingerprints.
Pliers layer with my little orange G10 and titanium Classic in the background.
Last opener layer.
Just a question: you ask why the liners are made so wavy. Don't you think it's for one of 2 reasons? 1...to enable several different shaped blades and tools to be fitted into a common liner, or... 2...so that the aesthetic is extra beautiful when the knife is apart ;-)
That was the liner lock cut for the Trekker that I was referring to. Honestly, I think it's because they knew that someday, somewhere, someone with a jewelers saw was going to try to improve on them with titanium and they wanted to make it as hard on them as possible. Plus it does look pretty cool when you look down in there.
It's obvious you have mad skills and serious attention to details, what I would love to know is what kind of tools are necessary to do this kind of work?
So far I gather a jewelers saw, a diamond hone of some sort (rotary?), buffing wheel/ grinder.
My mom just bought one of them foredom rotary numbers I am thinking a project like this might be just the ticket to break it in.
Step 1 is to be OCD and quit taking your meds. After that, the things I couldn't get by without are my jewelers saw with the right blades to cut out the titanium and my mini mill which is just a Micro Mark precision drill press with an X-Y table on it. I wouldn't try to drill through multiple layers that had to stay in perfect alignment without a drill press of some sort. There is just so much lateral movement that I would wear out bits very fast. I also use a Ryobi belt/disk sander to profile everything. I take an aluminum liner and drill the holes out to the bigger size I want. Then the titanium liners that have been sanded close to the finished shape get epoxied together with the aluminum liner on top. This gives me a template for drilling the holes and finish sanding the whole lot to the finished size. Then I split the liners apart with a razor blade and trace the lines for the inside liners and cut and finish sand those with spindle sanders on the mill. Everything gets hand sanded down to 2000 grit and polished with Flitz.
This titanium one was an experiment, kind of a prototype to see how hard it would be to do. That's what's been taking so long with getting it finished and let me tell you that there's a very good reason that nobody has done this before. It's a tremendous pain in the a**. There are a thousand things I learned along the way that I couldn't relay unless I wrote a book. I'm really surprising myself with how well it's going because there isn't a single thing that I'm not happy with so far and I only have to polish the sides and get the Victorinox shield, serial #1 and my makers mark lasered on at this point. The only regret I have is not polishing the other tools (which were all from a NIB knife) as well as I did the main blade because it kind of stands out next to those mirror liners. I also thought a bail like the old models had would be a nice touch so I cut the key ring loop off to keep me from changing my mind about that later. What started out as a plan to make the money to get some parts watercut is getting close to going on ebay with a $300 reserve. I'll be doing more of these but now I'm set up for production.
Cool I figured some sort of mill was necessary to make those bronze washer/spacers.
that thing is seriously, seriously sexy
You, sir, have been added to the list of people I despise (generally, anyone with talent and/or patience).
Finally finished, almost. I have to figure out a way to get a shield on this bad boy.
Absolutely the most beautiful SAK I've ever seen