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Discussion in 'MultiTools and Other Pocket Tools' started by metropolicity, Jan 29, 2013.
No I made my own adaptor, if you take a small bit driver and shave it down, it can fit.
That is quite ingenious.
It's kinda his thing.
Yeah! The battle of the back springs is no more..I finally figure out how to do it and I suspect that this is how leatherman does it too.
Instead is fighting and trying to compress the springs, I notice that you can slide it in AFTER the pivots are done up/installed. They slide in and then with a very strategic tap with a tool or slow push in with a vice, it's actually quite easy!!
Since I didn't have to fight the springs, I returned normal position of the blades/tools to open on the same side as the pliers.
Here's a photo essay of how I did it
After assembling and tightening the tools to the right tension, I started with installing the back springs of the blades. The blade back springs do not have a ridge in the middle, the stepped flat portion nests in the outer frame back spring rest.
Sliding the spring into the slot and slightly open the blade to catch the very start of the cam.
Then push it in more while simultaneously closing the blade a bit. There will be some resistance, but as long as you hold the blade closed the spring seems to stay in place. I also think an elastic band or a hobby clamp will help this help step.
I then used a spare back spring (a nail or punch will do) to tap it lightly until it seated into place.
I repeated this step three more times, the scissor/awl/can opener is very similar, but the only difference is that both the scissors and the awl/can opener has to be held closed too. The scissor also uses the two thinner back springs instead of the single one. The scissor spring arm needs to be separate.
The plier/inside tool ones are very similar but I needed the help of a couple of hobby clamps to keep the tool held closed.
This side is the Phillips driver so there are only two springs. The other side has three for each of the flat drivers. I had to make a tool that covered the springs to tap them in place. They need to be seated all at once, not one by one (they will fly out at your face if you don't)
I think I am going to see about designing some Splash style steel scales that incorporate back spring rests!
Very cleaver metro! I thought about that when i put together my skeletor but decided it would be more difficult than compressing the springs with vise grips. Ill try it on my pro.
I assure you, it's the easiest thing ever. Making a can of soup is harder.
What was the tool you made to seat the springs and what do your hobby clamps last look like?
Nothing special, it's just a piece of steel that is the same width as all the back springs.
The smaller versions of these:
I know I've said it before, but you sir are a Genius!!
Now, make scales for it with a Splash style hex driver incorporated into them!
They wouldn't be that useful, the bit adaptor for the juice is much better! I am working on it tho!
smoooothing on some more smoooothie scales.
The little tabs you see in the next photo are the back spring rests so I don't have use the outer skeleton chassis. I also revised these already to have an integrated washer which seems to smooth things out considerable.
Lets see how much it is to print in plastic first (but not install the back springs). I already increased the distance of the pivot holes by .2mm as per my experience with the Splash (to account for the shrinkage)
Wow, what a great project!
Ah I see what you did there... Great tip and I think that I will finally re-assemble my S2 now.
Now that I've figured out the secret to the Juice's powers. Time to start hoarding juice junk to build stuff!
Alright, polished alumide set of scales ordered.
If anything these will make a nice set of scales in combined with the skeleton frame in addition to being a fitting test for the stainless ones.
OH, I had received a used Juice S2 from an auction and there was a missing spring on the pliers.
I took a spare spring, installed it like I installed the other springs on the Smoothie, this MUST be how they assemble them in the factory, it's just too simple and easy. Not to mention, it's SUPER satisfying *SNAP* when they are seated properly.
Did a little fiddling today. Took an old user S2 I had and decided to even out the handles and remove the offending can/bottle opener.
In the process, I wanted to take a photo of another way to install the back springs.
As mentioned before, the way I installed the knife and tool backsprings is sliding it into as far as it can go, closing the blade/tool to hold the spring in place, holding it in place with a clamp or vice and then taping it into place.
The plier/inside tool springs are quite a bit stronger because of the short throw they have. The process is similar except I found that putting the end of the spring and the entire tool into the vice and slowly closing the vice would seat the springs nicely.
The end result is something like this.
I had made the middle flat driver into an awl.
Compared to another s2.
2 Sets of Steel Smoothie Scales ordered!
One set for the current stainless version and one set to be cerakoted or blued for the eventual BO Smoothie parts coming back from Spyh007!
The juice craziness continues will it ever stop!!! I wish I had a place to try some of this stuff!! Keep up the good work metro!
Used the skele-smoothie today to do most of the wiring, plastic shard cleaning, installation and clean up work on my new DIY millennium falcon lamp made from a flea market find.
The flat bit was perfect for taking off the plate, the wire cutters made short work of the lamp cord and the pliers worked very well to adjust the depth of nipple (teehee)