https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Ebladeforums%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D1265034&share_tid=1265034&share_fid=20754&share_type=t Super polished edges Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
A link to another forum with 'super polished edges' . We'll that is really lame. THANKS FOR THE THREAD! Are you Razor Edge Knives by any chance?
I thought i t was cool. Sorry still new to the forum thing but a pro at polished edges. Trying to inspire. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
'Look!' <links to something> Speak about low effort content Love tho how people are trying ot make something of this. Here's my contribution;
Fake-pro-apex system with some slight modifications to make it less wobbly. Nothing fancy really, but it is the best 30 bucks i ever spent on a sharpening system.
Hi Westerdutch, I have one of the Apex clones as well, one of the Ruixin Pro's, and I'm trying to figure out a mod for the pivot block to stabilize/reduce "slop" and I was wondering what you modified/how you modified yours to reduce all that play? I've considered everything from having a new pivot block assembly 3D printed to adding a silicon-bronze sleeve to modifying a bearing block/linear bearing or possibly a small Heim-type joint where the guide rod slides through the pivot.
Yes, you could try to make something complex that has no give whatsoever, but that's actually quite tricky to do properly as you will have to work with very very tight tolerances to get that to an acceptable level. That's why i chose to go the other route; pre-loading. The slack problem is quite simple; when you hold the handle that connects to the sliding rod (that holds the stone) on this kind of sharpener all the slop in the pivot area will make everything fall 'down' so to say, and as soon as you put the stone on your blade and apply some downward pressure on the handle the pivot will rock upwards and this will change the angle in the setup so you will never be able to keep a consistent angle guaranteeing results. A very simple solution is to take the slack out of the equation before you do anything by pushing the back of the sliding rod upwards all the time by for example a spring. All the spring has to do is compensate for the weight of the rod and the stone. Even having a full centimeter of slack doesn't mean anything if you can keep the rod forced in the upper position of that slack. Vague story, i know, here's a crappy pic to show the mod; That spring you see is pressed in the slot and firmly pushes the sliding rod upwards. You'll also notice a horrid piece of silicone tube and string around the stationary rod, thats there to take up slack for the entire assembly. Last but not least i've also reinforced the bed to make it stiffer, however for gentle grinding of knives you should not need that. If you wanna ham-fistedly reprofile an axe tho youll start to notice flex in the bed, only then will the bed itself need to be reinforced. Costs nothing, looks like utter ghetto but it works just oh so well I'ts no beauty competition, the proof of the pudding is in the eating.
Thank you Westerdutch. Mine has a slightly different pivot/slide rod mount but the spring tension against the guide rod is a very good idea. I'll just have to adapt your idea and modify it slightly. Now I need to start looking for a spring that could work for mine Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
I just took a spring from a clothes peg. Decent enough springsteel yet easy to bend. Cheap and plentiful enough so you can screw up a couple tries.
I ended up cutting an aluminum shim from a Dr Pepper can, no play in the guide rod now. It works but it's not a perfect solution.
I have the same thing. Mind showing show more modifications and techniques? I'd love to be able to get results like that.
Most of the mods on the thing are nothing to show off honestly, when i find a problem i just fix it and i make sure i don't spend any time making in pretty One little mod that is useful is that i cut some more notches in de bar you set your angle with so now i have 1 degree indications as opposed to 5. Technique-wise you can just follow the techniques for the real apex pro on YouTube. There's like a million of em out there with about as many different opinions about what's the best one but they all make some valid points. I myself use lots of stones so small grit increments and water, lots of water. After i hit my 2k grit stone i dry/clean everything and i polish with a set of diamond paste infused leather strops. Lemme see if i can find a pic on the strops i made.
Here's my strops; Old scrap leather from a belt, aluminium backing so it'll fit in the fakepex and some wood in between to get the right thickness. The small sticks are for scratch removal and to massage the diamond paste into the strops.
