cool, thanks! I am going to start working scales for my Tenacious today. The only thing I am unsure about is how to deal with the pocket clip since the modded scales will most likely be thicker.
You have several options. First is of course, try if the fasteners are long enough for your material (drill a hole into a scrap piece, maybe wood of the same thicknes if you don't have enough G10 or at the side of your blank). Second option would be to leave more material in the middle of the handle and thin it only at the places for the clip. Third option would be to contact Spyderco and ask for longer screws, I've read here they tend to send you some. No 4 would be to buy screws at a knife supply shop like usaknifemakers com. I would only drill the holes at the place where I want to have the clip (for me, tip up right hand carry) and then sand the material as thin as the fasteners require it. On my RAT 2 I milled out the clip section, but I guess I wouldn't do that again. You don't need the material there and a handle with a little belly in the middle is very comfortable for the hands. The darker area around the base of the clip is transparent epoxy. My first try with milling showed me that it's easy to mill away too much material
Awesome! Thanks for the tips...I know since this is my first try it 1) isn't going to be perfect, and 2) will definitely be trial and error!
That's definitely right. The first won't be perfect. The second won't be perfect. The hundreth won't be perfect. And that's ok. Your aim should be to make it as good as you can and as the way you want it to be. You will always find something to make better/different the next time, that's part of the fun. If you make the way you want it and as good as you can, chances are good that not only you but also others will like it. Still you should always make it for yourself, not the way you think ithers could like it. Been there, done that, I'm ove it
I started the same way, then I learned that it's better to drill the holes first, then shape the handle. You'll find out why But it's looking good so far. One question, you didn't use moonglow for the backspacer, did you? I'd love to try that someday, but right now I can't justify the expenses...
Well, I hope that when I find out, it doesn't sideline the whole project! I used a material called kirinite for the back spacer...it is like the moon glow!
You can't make a screw that is too short, longer. But, you can always make a screw that is too long, shorter. Buy screws longer than you need, then grind to length.
Yep tracking...however, as I am new to this, when I go on usaknifemaker, I see several lengths, and sizes. I have no idea what type or size of screw I have, so no idea what I need! I guess have some homework!
I would use your original scale as a template. Overlay it on the new material to get the placement of all the holes right. Are you going to attempt to counter-bore or counter-sink the screws? If so, you want to give a lot of thought as to how you are going to do that. I do it this way: A.) Mark the hole to be drilled precisely. B.) Drill a very, very small pilot hole. (Way smaller than the actual screw hole or through hole needed) C.) Drill the counter-sink next. (This should be the same size as the screw head and as deep as the screw head is thick. For most the knives I work on that's .050" deep) D.) Lastly drill the screw hole to size. (This should be the same size as the though hole is on the original scale) You should use brad point bits. These will give the counter-bore a flat step for the screw head to tighten down on.
Most of the screws I use are a 2-56 thread. For a good length... measure the longest screw you have presently. You want something longer than that. Remember........too long? Good.............too short? Bad Figure out the length screw you need and then get something a lot longer. Also, You can't make satin black. But, you can make black satin.
Thank you! One more question! the screws actually screw into a standoff on the Tenacious...so I guess I would order them together? Or trial and error?