So I learned that the lansky works better on my 0350 when I use a really light touch. Almost back to factory sharpness. Getting better and better!
What stone are you using? S30v right? That takes some time to get right. What's really strange is I can't get my S30v Microtechs nearly as sharp as my Spyderco S30v.
That's the only thing I can think of. Does super steel need a stiffer material to strop with? Sent from my ASUS ZenFone 2E using Tapatalk
I've read that CPM steel's perform better with a toothy edge. stop at 700 grit instead of going down to 3000 grit and beyond to get a polished edge due to having way more carbides formed. Also carbides being so hard that diamond hones are the preferred and more efficient way to sharpen them. I think it might have been Phil Wilson discussing this. Anyway I have tried conventional hones just seem to take a lot longer. Toothy edge lasts far longer and for me skinning game edge holds noticeable longer. With that said I like the leather stropped mirrored edge for aesthetic reasons far better. As far as edge bevel angle 15° per side with CPM steel's should be fine but with vg10 and like steel's I find edge rolling and chipping at that angle prefer 40° total or 20° per side. Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
kdurt : Well that's interesting. And makes some sense as well. Especially the enhanced performance with a toothy edge! Thanks for the info. Moshe ben David
Yes sharping is a on going learning experience . I only use stones ,around a dozen of different types . Plus an old Case butcher steel . Some steels are a joy to work on , some not at all . You can not use the same method on 1095 that is used on d2 . Many times I have had to lay the the knife down and start over . Nice and easy ,get it right and enjoy the process . Jake
