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Discussion in 'Keychain Tools' started by cowsmilk, Oct 12, 2014.
Nice. Are those Magnus Industries clips attaching the tools the Mini-D?
I have to say, I've made a 360 regarding my keychain. I used to add useful stuff to my keychain until I realized a favored my backup keychain which only had the keys on them when going to the store, or taking a quick walk. So now the only EDC-gear I have on my main keychain is a tritium vial so that I can see it in the dark and a P-7 clip.
I still carry useful stuff but a loaded keychain just became to bulky to me.
Exactly like mine! Wow
I too keep a 'tool chain' separate from keys.
Yes they are. Great clips!
I agree. They seem pricey, but, if you get a 5-pack, it's really quite a deal when you see the design and meticulous work that has gone into them.
Me too! I alternate between keeping them on a ring and in a small change purse so I can keep a Fisher Space Pen with my SAK Classic, Squirt, Keyshawn PT-2 and Olight iIR.
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So now I been using this set up for about 20 months, I have come to realise that the 'block' of keys method has 1 fundamental issue. The locker keys we are given at work are made of cheese, and over the last 8 months I have snapped 3 keys. The issue is the leverage. Has anyone else had this sort of issue? I am thinking of leaving my new locker key loose on my main ring, and reduce the number of keys I carry as I realised I only really use 4 of them on a regular basis. Expect a new set up picture shortly, but tempted to steal some ideas from this thread
You could make your keyholder narrower and leave your snapping key loose and still benefit from its attributes.
Use the top of a broken key as the keyring attachment, you'll have to drill a hole to post it in the keyholder.
You could have a copy made of the fragile key. I bet the copy will be more robust at the very least.
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Are the locker keys made unusually thin or of cheap metal? If so, I would agree with the recommendation made by @0880:
In my experience, the leverage issue is often the result of a loss of torque to the linkage between the post of the Keyport Pivot (or similar system) and the bow of the key. The solution is a bit counter-intuitive - grind away part of the key and drill a smaller hole in the remainder of the key
This solution allows a better transfer of torque and also placed the linkage closer to the blade of the key.
I hate a pocket full of keys. I also hate my car key fob floating around in the bottom my pocket. I keep my keys in my car console and got this little titanium clip for the fob...
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Makes sense, but the issue is mainly due to the fact its the type of lock where it holds the key until the lock is locked again, and the key is also acts as the handle for the door. I fixed the door the other day so it does not require as much force to pull open. The new lock I have has a thicker key which is more like the standard width of key so hopefully that has solved the issue. Worse case I guess I am getting the grinder out
I can’t stand how that bottle opener clip catches on my pockets. That dangler inspired my recent “worst designed edc item” thread.
Haven't noticed that problem. But mine goes in my pocket in the morning and doesn't come out until night.
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Do you typically operate the buttons through your pocket? If so, taking out the small split ring would force the remote to always align the way that you want it to. I've considered using a small clip to keep my remote faced out and stationary, but I have to access my keys often, and I don't want multiple clips on the same pocket.
Most of the time.
I just added a swivel so I can clip it on my belt or in my pocket and have the buttons facing the right way.
Ooooh... Does that come in titanium?
It is titanium.
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