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Discussion in 'Knives' started by dabluestuff, Jan 26, 2014.
I know they are cheap. But they look rugged and fairly wellbuilt in pictures. Are they worth buying?
They are cheap I have owned three. The knife for what it is rocks. The spanto style blade slices smooth. The pocket tool I love. Definitely worth the price tag. There is one floating around in the pass around box a. Edit you're in Europe. It's in the American pass around box. ..
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Here is my Shield! My one complaint is the liner lock is so stiff it is very difficult to close. Maybe take it apart and polish the lock edge?
Kershaw Shield RH by airmechqa, on Flickr
Kershaw Shield LH by airmechqa, on Flickr
I have had a few like that. Typically just working it a ton while watching a movie or something on TV for a while will break it in.
I do however take apart all most all my knives and polish washers and mating surfaces forr that "butter smooth" opening.
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by John Smith, on Flickr
my Kershaw skylines
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Snap-On Hype by Kershaw.
Here is my newly acquired OSO Sweet, the camo G-10 slabs behind it will soon adorn it with some liner/scale reshaping.
Isn't the Oso Sweet an assisted opener? I hope it's not getting too difficult to mill the spring's pocket.
Otherwise it's a very nice knife with a bit cheapish scales. Waiting to see her in the new dress
I use my Oso Sweet as my "work" knife. It's taken a beating, but still serves me well.
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It's an Speedsafe. It's a pretty looking knife, but I cannot abide those dragon scales handle.
Before I finish the new scales I am going to see how she flips with out the torsion bar, if she flips good it will become manual, if not I will mill out the pocket with a my Dremel for the torsion bar. Adahn
Basic EDC | On Person Carry | Skinth Loadouts | Backpack | Bail Out Bag
Did you finish those scales already?
I lost interest temporarily, plus I am swamped with rebuild and sharpening work from "customers". I just finished rebuild a Browning DA43 that belonged to a mans son who was just killed in Iraq, he handed me a pile of parts and all the pivot hardware was missing, clip, blade stop pin, I had to track down one for sale on AlieExpress and bought it for parts so I could rebuild it for him, when I handed him the knife he just started crying. Next up is a Kwaiken, bead blasting scales and a high polish blade, and customers wants a sterile blade so that's going to take awhile, lightly beads blast off lazer markings and then begin the polishing process. But I did try the OSO without the torsion bar and it wont flip barely at all.
edjo69 How do you do the polishing? All on the buffing wheel or with sandpaper?
The Boker logo is on the unground area, above the hollow grind, right?
Maybe you could sand it off by laying it on a piece of sandpaper on a glass plate?
I've read that in a knifemaking book but never tried it actually...
I start with hand sanding and when I have reached about 1000/1200 I move to a cotton wheel I have on my bench grinder and run black, then green, then white compounds until the blade is a mirror, then I resharpen. Oh and the logos come right off with a light blast of aluminum oxide at a low pressure on Bokers, some brands the etching is deeper and that's when it get more difficult, but I have sterilized three Boker Blades, one of them on my own Exskeliber 1 and the logos go away quick.