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Discussion in 'Knives' started by Water-Rat, Mar 22, 2014.
Bark River Compound on a leather strop
I've tried many methods of sharpening but water stones are most convenient for me.
Also why I'll never buy a recurve blade other than a kukri, I'll use sandpaper for them.
Sharpmaker users, question. I have owned two and sold two of them cause I could not get my knives sharp. I am sure it was a ton of user error, but hoping it was some of the Sharpmakers fault too.
Do you all use just the supplied stones, or did you buy the diamond stones to use on very dull knives? Cause I used the supplied stones and never could get a good edge on a dull knife. I quit on the diamond stone about thirty seconds after I bought them.
To me, waterstones are like the microwave oven. I distinctly remember not having them, but I still can't imagine living without them. I use up to four grits of waterstone and an untreated strop:
I did achieve similar results before using three grits of oilstone, a steel, and the strop. I tried the lansky some years back. I still have it stashed in an emergency bag somewhere.
You definitely want to get the diamond rods, they are a must if you are reprofiling or trying to sharpen an especially dull blade. Personally I've gotten the best results ever from the Edge Pro Apex, this set up makes short work of sharpening even the toughest of steels.
After finally reading through this, I think I'm going to sick with the sharp maker for a while. I'll add the other surfaces and get a strop and see how that does.
sent from a device without a real keyboard, sorry for things that don't make sense.
Since I happened to need to sharpen a batch anyway, I thought I'd try to show what waterstones to 8000 grit do. First is a skeletool with the factory edge blown up big enough to see imperfections in the edge
And after the 8000 grit waterstone and the strip, the bevel looks blotchy because the high points have been polished down and the low parts are mostly untouched, but the edge itself is now a fine line. It shaves like a demon.
I've spent some cash.... but this is it...and carpet.
bad steel, right...not something that I would worry about much.
I think the steel's probably all right in this one--it's 154 CM--but the factory grind on these is pretty rough. It's certainly not S110V, but It's a step up from their usual 440. I haven't even used the knife blade yet, and may never since I keep a decent knife with me, but I wanted it sharp. It is now.
Stropping compound and carpet is an entirely new method to me, and I have to say I'm fascinated. Do you strop on the carpet itself, or buff with it after the strop?
probably not a popular view but... watch a Murray Carter video. turn the sound off and watch his hands. Muscle memory and practice. That's what we are all looking for...
I use a mouse pad for backing with sandpaper on my convex edge knives or a diamond hone for straight edge blades and always finish all knives on a leather strop with sharpening compound.
It's all about having the right technique whatever your method to get sharp knives and this can take a lot of practice.
Got it. Thanks. I was hoping that was the case. Edge Pro Apex.. will check it out too. Thank you.
Excellent point. I do also use a sanding pad for a couple of knives with convex edges, taking the grit as fine as I can get and finishing with leather. I put convex profiles on my CS Trailmaster bowie, my Buck Nighthawk, and my Kershaw Outcast this way, all of which used to seem to get dull just sitting in their sheaths before. This is probably the most expensive method I've found, though. The cost of sandpaper would add up very quickly if I did this for all of my knives (and the initial reprofiling takes quite a bit of time).
For very dull knives and for reprofiling, I have bought Ruby stones from Congress tools. The triangle shape in 1/2" size fits just about perfect in the Sharpmaker. You can get them in grits below 400 and they are pretty aggressive. They are also a lot cheaper than the diamond stones from Spyderco (maybe 3 or 4 times less than what the Spyderco rods go for on popular online sites) and, from what I understand, much rougher than the diamond stones. They probably might not last as long as the Spyderco stones, however.
All this with a grain of salt because I don't own a pair of the diamond rods. I'm only going on my experience with the Ruby stones, information from Amazon on price, and other folks discussion of how aggressive the diamond rods are/aren't.
I have a small collection of stones, but I mostly use a Smith's diamond stone, the 6" fine version. I can get shaving sharp on just that, but if I'm bored or trying to see what I can do I'll use a ceramic rod to finish the edge. (Sounds like I need a strop, too...)
I usually sharpen with my diamond stones and recently found out that on the 4 sided block I can adjust them in 2 angles, 12 and 20 degrees.
Now I just have to hold the blade in a 90 degrres angle and always get the same result. Cheaper then a sharpmaker but turned system.
The stones are not the best, they have some diamond spikes, but that only bothers me when I want to grind something flat, with sharpening I never had any issues.
Double post, pls remove.
wicked edge system for re-profiling and sharpening a beat up edge, or a knife I haven't sharpened yet.
I use lansky croc sticks for touch-ups.
@SamHill I've seen the LANSKY TB-2D2C Diamond/Ceramic Turn Box.
I like the idea but 20 and 25 degrees is just a bit too much, I'd more like maybe 15 and 20.
But maybe someday I'll get one.