Recently I saw pictures of a JHanko titanium gunner grip EX11.2 that blew me away.. I emailed the source where they were being sold and found I was a bit shy of being able to aquire it. In the days to follow I couldn't stop looking at the pictures and thinking about how cool that grip must feel. So I have to thank Jeff for helping to motivate me to make my own PD gunner grip light. However, my machining skills are crap compared to the masterpieces he makes. Gotta start somewhere... About two weeks ago I chucked up my Zebralight SC52 in the mill vise and started removing material away from the light to access the driver. Considering they use press in rings to secure the bezel and switch, I figured this was the only way to preserve the components I was after without ruining them. The driver/emitter board/ window/ retaining ring/ reflector were all successfully removed to be reused. The Zebralight UI is one of my favorites. The SC52 uses a small momentary switch to turn on/off and switch levels/program. I planned on using a PD style switch in place of the side switch. Admittedly the side switch seems a little difficult for my first build and I didn't want to risk screwing it up. I had zero plans when I started this. I simply wanted a PD based light with the gunner grip and a zebralight UI...so I started cutting metal. Brass seemed like a good place to start since bare aluminum just seems kinda..blah..compared to brass, titanium, copper.. Brass would be nice to my cutters/end mills and not cost me too much if I mess up other than a hard lesson. Well I did learn a few lessons along the way but, all in all I'm happy with the way it turned out for my first complete build. This picture shows the last 3 remaining gunner grip rows toward the tail are not done. This was a huge lesson in proper set-up. I didn't have enough stock exposed to allow the end mill to cut to fit in between the rotary table and the mill head. It was a pain trying to keep the bar centered in the chuck perfectly as I pulled it out to better expose it to the cutter. Once that was done, the tailstock needed to be reset, chuck tightened and everything dialed back in...no fun and lesson learned. Darn trit slots took longer than the gunner grip! The heatsink needed to be milled to allow clearance for the components on the bottom of the board to fit. The holes are for the power wire, switch wires, and for the screw to hold the heatsink and isolation plug in place. .