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Discussion in 'Watches' started by Evil D, Aug 4, 2015.
Oh right duh...I have the SNZG15.
Looks like 42x12ish. I can probably find something that more or less matches that, probably have to go a little smaller in diameter (my 42+s are probably all chrono or divers). I'll try to see what I can come up with sometime tonight and snap a pic or two with the GSAR.
I recommend you AVOID the Marathon Navigator's watch, based on personal experience, sample size of 1. I've had to glue the tritium vials back into place, re-paint the numbers in the bezel, and now I'm trying to find someone who'll replace the convex, weak plastic crown. I've polished it dozens of times to remove scratches, but now it's been cracked after a moderate bump on a door handle and I haven't found anyone who'll replace it yet.
This is about the best I can do for you... There isn't quite enough room on my wrist for both watches, so neither sits where it should.
The steel band, too high up on my wrist is a Marathon GSAR, I've got it upside down to get case-to-case instead of case to crown.
Too low on my wrist on leather (and it's a very thick custom strap) is a Hamilton Field Officer Mechanical 40mm. It's a handwinder so the movement is really thing and it's actually a little under 11mm at the very edge and probably 13 at the very peak of the domed crystal. Since I saw measurements for your SNZG15 running from 11 to 12.5 I figured that would be a decent comparison. Note that the crystal on the GSAR is completely flat -- where the bezel ends so does the watch.
I took the snap as head-on as I could manage. I think it gives a good comparison of the by-the-numbers difference, but a poor showing for real world fit. There's no denying the GSAR is a beefy piece and it may well not work for you (or your sleeves as it were). Still, most of us do keep a little play in how we wear our watch and that ability to slide or twist a little might be the difference and the photo takes away those intangibles.
Man, sorry to hear that. I've had no experience with the navigator but I keep a GP Mechanical (purchased new from Marathon 3 or 4 years ago now) strapped to the outside of a bag that gets tossed around a bit and I've had no problem. When you typed "crown" did you mean crystal? The GP uses the same acrylic and my experience of it (and of a lot of acrylic crystals on vintage pieces) is that they only crack if hit like that if they are already under strains to begin with -- like if they aren't installed correctly and a section is under uneven stress. DId you get ahold of Marthon support? At the very least they should be able to get you a proper sized replacement dome.
Deep Blue hands down! Check em out! Love mine!
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Thanks for the pic...also I actually have the SNZG15J1...not that there's THAT much difference between the two. Still, there's quite a bit of height difference there, so much that I feel like the Marathon is going in the opposite direction of what I'm after here, which was a big reason I moved away from G Shocks in the first place (wanting a slimmer/thinner watch overall). I would LOVE to have a Hamilton Khaki Titanium, but it's a bit out of my price range.
Not sure how I missed your post but I did check out that GWS and man that is just about exactly what I'm looking for, except I wish it was T100 and had the day along with the date. I also wouldn't mind if it were 42mm or even a tad larger, as I don't mind larger watches (within reason, I don't need a Flavor Flav wall clock strapped around my wrist). The price is also a lot easier to swallow than the Luminox or Nite that I was looking it.
So I dunno guys...I appreciate the help, but I'm torn over the whole thing. It's not that I don't like my Seiko...I just would like the lume to be more reliable. I'm spoiled by having that auto backlight on my G Shock. It's hard for me to justify ~$400-500 just for tritium. My Seiko actually doesn't keep the best time either...it runs pretty slow in just a week's time. It definitely has me hooked on the size and fit, especially with a Nato strap (again, thanks to everyone who helped me out in that thread as well). I think at this point it's down to the Nite and the GWS Pro Diver (the more water resistant the better). I really wish the Luminox had better reviews and/or customer service, as I really like the looks of that watch.
Doesn't hurt my feelings, glad the pic can help you make a more informed decision -- one of the reasons we are all here, right?
I owned a the black Field Ti Hammy for a bit it had a lot to offer but I eventually passed it on (in favor of a 40mm Field Mechanical that I like the fit on better). Hamiltons are actually my area of expertise and 4-5 is the right range for a used one if that's what you want. New you should easily be able to get the price around 650 (probably 7 for the grey ti on bracelet). Gotta warn you though, since this is your find a Trit thread: Hamiltons have about the worst lume in the business. It's one of the two things they don't seem to want to do that just mystifies the heck out of most of us fans.
Agree entirely apart from the tritium, I'd prefer T25 to T100, I want visibility in the dark, not bothered about reading it from a distance, through 6" of tar or signalling with it!
If it had day & date, I'd already have bought it.
I know man, that's a real shame. If it had at least T25 I could justify the price much easier. That watch is on the "want it just because I like it" list, regardless of the lume.
Yeah, I'm really debating on this watch. I had it in a shopping cart last night and had my credit card info entered and was literally about to click the purchase button. I usually know what day it is (my partying days are over lol) so the date may be enough, and I always have my cell phone on me anyway. You may be right about the T25 thing also...I may just want T100 because more is usually better, but I'm also getting by with the non trit lume on my Seiko, which after an hour is still pretty visible at night and I would assume T25 would be at least as bright as my hour long faded out Seiko. My arm can only be so far away from my eyes anyway LOL.
Evil D, just remember that saying we use here: buy once, cry once. Essentially, get the item you really want, instead of buying a cheaper one and then next year having to buy the one you really wanted in the first place. It sounds like you've heard some pretty informed comments on here ... in fact, I fear we're starting to repeat ourselves.
Again, although it sounds like I'm "up selling" you, I'm actually trying to save you money in the long run. Just a suggestion.
Oh I totally understand that, that's why I have a lot of expensive knives lol.
+1 Got a couple of DBs with T-100 tubes, LOVE them. But they are thick chunky watches.
Just something to think about - not all of these watches have a trit vial on the second hand. If that matters to you (it does to me) then remember to check that before buying.
I love my Tawatec. Had it for four years. Simple, bright, good looking and reliable.
Thought I'd update this thread, because I finally got to handle my "watch idol" last night, a Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium. And, I must say it only made me more happy with my GWS purchase. They wanted $1k for this watch, and I'm sure it's a fantastic watch, but not for 3x what I paid for the GWS. I love how accurate the GWS has been, and I don't think I can go back to not having tritium. I only ever take this watch off to shower, and that's only because I don't like my nato getting wet. This watch really needs more recognition, but then it also seems to be one of the best kept secrets in the field watch world and I like that there's little chance I'll ever run across someone else wearing one.
Well I guess I can eat my words on that last post. Well, I didn't buy it at least but it seems this watch was almost destined to find its way onto my wrist. I still wish it was tritium, I still don't like how the 3 is cut in half, I still wish it showed the day along with the date, and I wish they used a black date wheel with a white number instead of white/black. But, everything else about this watch still outweighs those things and I am absolutely in love with this thing. I have my brother to thank for buying it for me, which makes it even more special. Overall I still can't really say I like it more than my GWS Pro Diver, but in some ways I do like it quite a bit more.
One thing I'm curious about that hopefully someone can answer is about hand winding. I know it's an automatic and probably will never need hand wound, but what's the proper method of hand winding something like this? I had some hand wind watches when I was a kid but that was 30 years ago and I don't wanna screw something up or over wind it, etc.
Is that a 3? Or an 8? Maybe its 28 o'clock!! Youll never know What were they thinking when they designed that monstrosity!!
Joking aside, i would not worry about that itty little issue. The great thing about an analog watch for me has always been that you can just glance the hands positions and know what time it is, you don't even read the numbers when doing that.
Hand winding should indeed not be needed but if that movement follows 'the standard' its just a case of unscrewing the crown from the body till it pops out, then you turn it the other way to wind it, then you just push it back while providing light pressure so it catches back on the threads and screw it back in.
One thing you must watch out for when reviving a watch like this back from the dead is that you should never change date anywhere near the midnight position (i myself just never do it in between 2100-0300). This involves some trickery as you will ofc not know when the watch ran out of juice (be it 1 in the afternoon or 1 just after midnight). Proper procedure is to either wear the watch for a bit to give it some reserve or wind it manually, then change the time to a 'safe' position and only after that change the date.
Yeah it doesn't stop me from wearing it, it's just one of those things you're going to nit pick if you're going to spend a grand on a watch. I didn't buy it though, so those little issues bother me a lot less
[quote="Evil D, post: 2572067, member: 42131] One thing I'm curious about that hopefully someone can answer is about hand winding. I know it's an automatic and probably will never need hand wound, but what's the proper method of hand winding something like this? I had some hand wind watches when I was a kid but that was 30 years ago and I don't wanna screw something up or over wind it, etc.[/quote]
Nice watch. I really like that whole line.
Winding - I think you'll find that the power reserve will keep it going through the night. If not, it shouldn't hurt to give the stem a few turns to get it moving, then a few more to keep it going. Then, strap it on and go about your business.
I have a number of auto winders and I'm bound to a desk virtually all day. Even my sedentary habits will keep them wound.
And you shouldn't have any trouble with over winding - automatic movements have clutches that prevent damage from over winding. Not sure about the Hamiltons, but a glance at the manual should cleat that up.
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