Here is a pic of my bars. I took all switches off expect the blinker and starter. I moved the on/off and high/low to the eyebrow. As well as the neutral and oil light. I also removed the tack and moved the speedo down to the left of the tank. Also moved the ignition and coil. The coil is where the horn use to be. And the ignition is under the battery box Also here is a picture of the highway pegs and the mid pegs I made from 1-1/4 solid stock Also I cut the rear fender and moved the license plate and tail light to left side of the bike as well I also got rid of the belt and put a chain on. And when I did that I cut part of the guard that way if the chain ever breaks I don't have to remove anything to put a new chain on.
Lets just say that no one has ever seen me and Tony Stark in the same room, just saying. My color of choice is flat black, I use Rustoleum's Flat Black Camo Paint on everything.
Like the mods, great to see brothers making their bikes their own and not some cookie cutter off the showroom floor, I have a ton of time and sweat into modding both my bikes. One question for you...how hard is it to see that tach when spooling her up and stuff is whipping by you at speed? I have my oil pressure gauge attached to my rear valve cover (basically under my right leg) and its a beeotch to see at speed.
Thanks. I just made a new eyelid for my bike last week. Still have some final touches to put on it. But since I moved my switches down on the eyelid I was not able to adjust my headlight down low enough to see that good at night. So I didn't ride at night last year. But I can see now with the new eyelid. And I can see up to 70 MPH on the speedo. After that the tank blocks all the other numbers. but if i'm doing over 70 MPH I don't really care about looking at the speedo. But riding around town or out on the road it is just a quick glance down to check speed. I have not had a problem at all with it.
checking the oil pressure that often? LOL Hell, just put a dummy light on the bike so if it gets low it'll light up, that'll be much easier. No oil press gauge on my dragbike...or any other bike that I own.
I make stuff out of pretty much anything- metal, leather, plastic and wood. Basically whatever it takes to achieve the desired result. Oh yeah, I sew stuff, too but don't have any pics handy. Here are a few of the things I've made. Whistle made of stainless. Workbench of my design made from scratch. Please excuse the mess. Sound deflectors I made for the bottom of my 55" Samsung TV, made of plastic and aluminum. Leather handle cover I made for my carry on luggage. Knife strop I designed and made.
For an hand-made sheath (svord peasant) - what suggestion for leather/suede thickness? Nearer 2 or 4 mm? Any favoured suppliers?
For a knife even 1mm thickness is enough. I once made a slip-through sheath for a knife with the same lever opening mechanism. (knife: PPC Occam Cocobolo, 1 of 50)
here are some of the pens and tops ive made. im leaving out the other stuff i make as its not really edc.
Here are my two homemade EDC items. First is the flashlight holster I made. I had been carrying a Nebo Blueline (yeah, i know it isn't a $200 flashlight) in my pocket, but that just wasn't ideal. This is a nice little light that i picked up for $12, with 180 lumens, focusing beam, magnetic tailcap and runs from a single AA. I made a simple holster from a piece of 1" polyethylene pipe. i had to stretch it a little with a heat gun to make it fit nicely at the top. i created a plug for the bottom using small sections of 3/4" and 1/2" pipe nested together, filled the hole with hot glue, then used jb weld to attach a neodymium magnet, and hot glued it all in place. I riveted on an old belt to make a loop. the light fits in perfectly and snaps in nicely to the magnet. next is my EDC tape spool. It is a simple device made from a 3" clevis pin, split keyring and two 1.25" steel washers. It holds 6ft of both Duct Tape, and Electrical tape. I keep it clipped to a carabiner on my belt. It comes in incredibly handy, i use it very frequently.
I refused to pay over 50 dollars for a firesteel ferrorod that bark river makes so I made my own... May not be as professional looking but good enough for me One is brown horn and the other is amboyna burl with a cyanoacrylate coat... All made from scraps from straight razors I've rescaled Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yup thin super glue... You sand it to 600 grit then apply 1 coat, blow dry ---> repeat times three --> wet sand with 600 grit until all the shiney patches are gone---> then start building up another layer by apply 1 coat blow dry ---> repeat times three --->Wet sand with 600 grit until all the shiney patches are gone again then start sanding all the way through 2000 grit or higher if you have it then buff with mothers aluminum polish I use it on the straight razors I restore Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
