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Discussion in 'Handguns' started by RAMBOCAT, Mar 11, 2016.
Why is ATF good as a gun lube?
Just was looking for this yesterday. Good minds think a like.
I'm sticking with hoppes. I tried froglube last year, and heated up the parts, yadda yadda, but I looked at em, and they now are pretty seized up. That's just from sitting in my safe. Some guns I don't use as much as I should.... but my mossberg 835 is jambed up with that crap. I can hardly rack it....so I need to clean it all out.
I've been using a 50/50 concoction of Honda ATF and M1 Synthetic 5w20 for a while now. Cleans nicely and lubes well. Never had an issue with this combination.
That being said...I bought a big bottle of Ballistol recently in hopes of finding an effective, somewhat Eco-Friendly solution to cleaning and lubrication. So far, so good with the Ballistol. The smell definitely takes some getting used to though.
I talked to a few people and they say it it is only good for guns you shoot regularly. /smh.
I agree took all of it off my gear as well.
I use break free clp to clean and lube with high temp axle grease. I run glocks and ak's so the grease isn't a problem. Not sure about tighter tolerance firearms though. I know a lot of guys like mobile 1. The nice thing about grease is it stays where you put it. Oil of any kind is going to run, that's what it's made to do.
I seem to be the only one that Frog Lube works great for. I originally bought it to use on blades, eating without the taste or hazards of traditional oil. I have since been using it on a few pistols I carry and have not had issues.
I am using my glock 19 most often and I use mobile 1 on the very few points to lubricate
I've used royal purple for years and recently decided to try Lucas Oil gun lube and it just seems like ATF.
I use Mercury Outboard Quicksilver 2 cycle racing oil for temps above 40F as it dissipates carbon .... Inox MX3 for temps below that... I run the ARs and Benelli wet...
One of the issues is when you put it in to storage for a while (over 6+ months) and/or leave it sit under 20 degrees for long periods of time. (Truck guns here in Alaska.) Or safe queens that do not get used more than 1-2 times a year then sit in the safe to be happy. I was shocked as I put it on as the instructions and vids (using a heat gun, yada yada)on the interwebs show, after a year of sitting in the safe, I pulled out a AR that I don't put a lot of mileage on to, and it had for lack of better descriptions coagulated. I had wiped it down a few times after I put it in storage as I had seen some start to gather a bit. Since then I have decided M-Pro is what I will use from now on.
One reason I am not a fan of ATF or other automotive lubricants is that they might do damage, or stain other things they may come in to contact with. Clothes, interior paint, wood stains and tables, ect. I know that it never happens but I rather be on the side of overly cautious than having to spend more to make the other half happy because a nice stain on the brand new couch/coffee table ect. Yes I normally work on my firearms in the garage (it is heated and nice out there) but sometimes I set things down where it may or may not be appreciated.
3 in 1 oil for me has worked for years!
Because your transmission - or engine if you use motor oil - is an iron/aluminum/steel machine that performs more cycles in a trip across town than your gun will in a life time, under relatively high temperatures and stresses. These oils are designed specifically for the job. Next time you change your motor oil, the handful of ounces (maybe you have a 4.5 quart engine) left over should lube your fire arm(s) for a pretty long time. Or buy a quart and lube them for at least your lifetime for about $5.00. Either way, over most "gun lubes" you'll save many boxes of ammo worth of scratch in the process.
Shooter's Choice FP-10 or Ballistol. If I want to clean the guns with Hoppe's No 9, then I'll use the FP-10 to lubricate. If I want to just use one product to clean and lubricate, I'll use Ballistol.
So for the "safe queens" what lube would be best?
I know what's cheap but not what's best: mineral oil. We used it for years on my match team at school. The rumor is mineral oil is what you get in the orange Hoppe's bottle. It does a good job of corrosion protection and lubrication.
Breakfree CLP has proven its effectiveness over the years with all my firearms. Easy to use. It cleans , lubricates, and protects the final product with good long term storage results. Well at least for me that is.
If we're talking "lubrication" and not surface protectant, Dri-lube. Unless you're going to completely strip and thoroughly clean your firearm after EVERY use (or trip out of the safe even) liquid type oils actually cause more wear and tear on a firearm than none at all. Grit and debris sticks to the oil, the cycling of the firearm causes this grit to work like emery paper on moving parts. This is particularly true in arid climates or dusty dry conditions. CCW holders in particular will also do well to make note of this advice. A CCW firearm makes repeated trips into the field in between cleanings. Lint, dust and grime gets in everything and oil will only gum up the action, potentially causing a malfunction when (IF, god forbid) needed. Dri-lube products circumvent this for the most part. There are several out there, I just happen to use the Remington product, but there are others to choose from.
Yes, the analogy about a car motor is a good one, but remember a car engine is a contained environment for the most part. Not so for a firearm.
The other thing to consider is heat. Repeated firing (say at a range for example) generates lots of heat, enough heat to burn off most of the lubricating qualities of oil based products. What's left behind is gummy goo residue which is a super-magnet for gunk and debris. Best case is more wear, worst case is a malfunction.
Now surface protectant is a different discussion and does require something to actually coat the surfaces. A Dri-lube type product will not work for this (plus it's pretty unsightly as well). I generally use high quality silicone, but just to protect exposed surfaces.