Like Evil D, I understand the desirable anti-friction properties of automotive lubricants for metal-to-metal objects. That said, in your experience, how well does your choice of lube stick/stay with the parts? How much do you use? I'm guessing not much lest it run out and get all over the place. You also mention "very specific parts on specific guns"...can you elaborate? On one hand, I trust the gun lube manufacturers, but on the other hand, I have to wonder if I've been wasting my time and money on traditional gun lubes. Currently, I apply Hoppe's Elite to moving parts except the frame rails on semi-autos where I use TW25 grease. I'll use Rem oil as a surface protectant for the rest. A bit of song and dance compared to a single lube solution, that's for sure.
I think the point is that many "gun lubes" are no different and/or no better than conventional lubes that we may already have in the garage, that can be had in much larger quantities at much cheaper prices. When a company markets a lube at "gun prices" and it's nothing more than vegetable oil that you can buy at the local grocery store for less than $5 a quart, you start feeling ripped off. I bought Tuf-Glide for the rust prevention qualities, otherwise I probably wouldn't own that either. I do think there's something to be said about some of these "new age" lubes in something like a knife pivot, but for a gun I think you just need a quality metal to metal friction reducer, and things like motor oil, ATF, even gear oil if you can stand the smell, are going to do just as good and in some cases far better than "gun oil" when you consider that "gun oil" they're selling you is little more than Crisco. Then if you wanna take it a step further, when you need a product to remove carbon, and you're going to lube anyway, I don't see any reason not to use something like CLP that does both at the same time. You can always add more lube if you want I guess. Depending on the part, I can understand wanting to use a straight solvent that doens't also lube...like down in the frame of a Glock where you don't want lube all over the place. For just about everything else though, CLP and maybe a drop of whatever engine oil you have in the garage applied with a toothpick to your rails is probably more than enough.
Usually Ballistol for cleaning and lubricating most parts, and some "Sig High Definition Gun Grease" that came with my gun for the slide rails. If I want to get really thorough with the cleaning I use some Hoppes No 9. I have a Break Free pen in my range bag, but I just bought that one for the small form factor. When it's empty I'll probably just refill it with Ballistol. Does anyone have a recommendation for a good oil without cleaning additives? I have seen what Ballistol can do to brass and I don't want to use it on everything.
A lot of people use Mobil 1. I prefer CLP, but if I was looking for a straight oil, I'd prob go with Mobil 1 also. And no, I don't know which weight people prefer...
For pistols, I'm using Slip2000 EWL or EWL 30, generally. For guns that get concealed carry where I can CCW, I use Froglube. Since I AIWB, the smell of Froglube and potential staining by lubricant on clothing is mitigated.
