1st of all, here is the problem with a stock 3D Maglite. Here it is pictured with a 60 watt outdoor lamp. Ya kinda get the idea that current flashlight technology needs some help. New led = another pictorial Seoul semiconductor has done it again with thier latest P7 led. Let's break out some tools and have some fun! Take off the head tailcap and dump out the batteries. Take off the switch boot without tearing it up and use a 5/64ths allen wrench to loosen the switch assembly. Use the same allen key hex wrench to loosen the bulb holder guts. Dump those out. Make the switch assembly look something like this. Make the stock reflector look something like this nice and neat. Go ahead and ream out about an additional 2 millimeters from it's apex to make that bigger for this large P7 led. Heatsink makers; we have a little problem here. None of these heatsinks are flat topped for this large led's slug. The ideal heatsink would be flat topped and type3 annodized for electrical isolation. I finally flat topped the h22a bare aluminum unit for this demonstration. But we still need to electrically isolate this big and expensive led's (+) bottom from the light's (-) ground. Cree to the rescue. I cannibalized an obsolete P2 flux Cree XRE for it's ceramic base to use as a thermally conductive electrical isolator. Remove and shave all the guts and cut the corner pass-through contacts off. Mix up some 2 part arctic alumina. Apply the rigged isolator to the heatsink and bullseye center it. Do the same with the led on top of that. Cut a couple of wires like this about 5 inches long. Preflux the wires and the places where they are getting soldered to with rosin flux. Wire these into the switch assembly like this nice and neat. Re-install the switch assembly into the light. Has the Arctic Alumina adhesive hardened yet? Good, we have more work to do with that heatsink. Drill 2 more holes carefully like this because the led is too big for the original ones. Now we can wire up this led heatsink assembly. Bend and squish the wires into the flashlight a little something like this. Note: The led has a pinhole in one of it's leads. That is it's (-) Guide the wires into the heatsink noting the led's polarity. Apply heatsink grease to the heatsink and push it into the light. It went right in this time. Use a hollow pvc pipe and mallot if needed to drive it in fully without splatting the fragile led. Bring the wires through like this a little more and preflux them with rosin flux. Put the light in a gentle vise, or holder and use two hands to position and solder the wires into place. Okay, load the batteries back in without the tailcap. Push the switch to the "on" position and give it a go with a dc ampmeter. Here it is with fresh alkalines at 1.72 amps, no problem here. Again with Nicad D cell batteries at about 2.3 amps. Still no issues here either. This is why the reflector's apex was reamed out bigger earlier. The big led and it's "wider stance" wiring made this necessary. Still, there never was any light hitting the removed part of the apex anyways. No harm there. Remember this? Now watch this! 60 watt vanity light getting clobbered. 4 26 watt compact flouros at 1600 lumens each getting lit up a bit. 4x100 lumen quad UXOJ binned Luxeon3's totalling about 400 lumens getting owned. Obsolete Luxeon5 WX1T pushed to near 200 lumens getting beaten bad in every way. Call the Police or Security! Stock Magcharger getting clobbered. Happy modding!!