Discussion in 'Do-It-Yourself Modifications' started by Echo2, Nov 25, 2012.
Looks like press I picked up at HF. Have you drilled ram and bottom plate for eyelet dies yet?
And yes....HF press.....$40....
Almost got that unit, but ended up ordering the master version.
You may already know, but if not ... I've read that results are improved (fewer split eyelets) by lubing dies before flaring the eyelets. Recommended: 3M Dry Silicone Spray Lube
Does the HF press have the hole in the ram for the male die?
No, it doesn't. The ram and the lower plate have to be drilled (for my dies anyway). Haven't done yet. Trick (of course), especially with the upper ram, is getting the hole drilled straight so the upper and lower dies engage straight on. Have a benchtop drill press, so should go OK.
You may have noticed HF has a heat gun accessory kit for $8. Almost got it, then realized I'd only be using the "spreader" nozzle (top-right) ... for "spot" heating after forming in press, to flare sheath openings or to fine-tune retention. So I passed, and instead fashioned one out of titanium foil already had on hand. Heavy aluminum foil would work (e.g. from aluminum baking loaf pan; cheap at grocery store).
What advantage does the "Master" have over the "Journeyman"?
It's machined to function with the (holes drilled into the) arbor press, e.g. it has the "shoulder." And the arbor press, as you know, yields consistently better results vs. using a hammer to seat/flare eyelets (at least for the likes of me ). The journeyman dies could likewise be seated into (ram and base plate) holes, but not having the shoulder, they'd bottom-out in the hole. And since the bottom of the hole won't be flat (thanks to the conical shape of the drill bit end), might not seat straight. Although, holes drilled to tight tolerances would prevent any "wiggle" in the journeyman dies, despite not having a shoulder. One other totally unscientific observation ... from photos, it looks like the master set might be better steel or better machined (smoother). But I haven't handled or used either in person yet, so what do I know?
Quality of steel was my thought....and now I'm gonna order a set to have.
I will have to set up the mill and bore the ram when it gets here..
Scroll saw would work OK, I just use a pair of snips to cut the molded piece to size and a belt sander and a dremel to achieve the desired shape. Then a foam sanding pad to smooth things up.YMMV Plus I have the dies like XB pictured. Put bolt in bottom of moveable art of press to center it and marked and drilled hole in bottom part. Added set screw to upper part to hold die in place. Speaking of dies I got both sizes 1/4 and 3/16 for both sizes of rivets.
Hmm... custom battery holders...
OR! that twin S.O.B. push dagger sheath I've always wanted.
You'll have to get another dagger...
The limit is the imagination.....I want to put the set up at your garage CSM.
Swing by the shop sometime and see what's involved....then you can do it too.
I did find a source in Richmond for 4' x 8' x .080" Kydex.
Actually two... I was never really happy with that United one.
You're getting ready to place a knife order......you know what to do....
BTW....I'm using the Fabulous Blaster SL (silicone lube)....and didn't have a fractured rivet on any of them.
The dies worked great....but I can see where stationary dies would be best. I may drill the head to mount the upper die....and use it to mark the drill point for the lower die.
Where are you getting your rivets? I'd like to be able to order them by the 100ct.
Check http://usaknifemaker.com/sheath-making-materials-supplies-c-37.html or http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=41_56_416 For what its worth concerning knifekits, the last 2 times I ordered from them I had my CC# stolen and they were the only common order that I made. Or http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php?cPath=49_37_125
That looks really nice. What would the chances being oF YOu making me a belt sheath for a esee izula in safety green?
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