Prybaby lanyards, and Bug Out Bar corrosion

[kennyj]

Two questions for the incredibly-talented Atwood, or anyone else who might have some insight...

1. How is the lanyard on the Prybaby tied? It looks like a simple enough knot, but I couldn't duplicate it no matter how many times I tried. Googling for knots wasn't any help either... I'm considering both replacing the existing lanyard with a thinner one (possibly a different color as well) and using the same knot on lanyards for a few other tools.

2. I've kept my Bug Out Bar in my car for a month or two (pretty much since I got it, however long that's been.) The tail end (without the flexible "sheath" protecting it) has lots of tiny rust spots on it, giving every indication that the "peaks" of the bead-blasted finish are oxidizing. It appears to be purely cosmetic, but it's getting a little worse every time I look at it.

Granted, I'm in Florida, which is almost constantly humid. In fact, I once had a friend visit from Las Vegas who joked that you don't walk here, so much as you swim through the air.

Not only does my car see significant daily variations in temperature and humidity, but in the warmer months (like right now) I tend to have the air conditioner cranked whenever I'm in it, which causes the BOB to be exposed to extremely wide variations in humidity and temperature. In other words... my car's interior is probably a torture device for non-stainless steels.

I know there's no real damage done so far, but it is unsightly... and I'm concerned that over time, if left alone, this could develop into more than a cosmetic problem. Is there any way I can protect my BOB while storing it in my car?

[Barefootone]

Hey Kennyj,
* * *I can't help you with the knot, but I can recommend Tuf- Glide. I have been using Tuf-Glide on my expensive knives for years and it works great* O0. Here's where you can find it.* http://www.sentrysolutions.com/welcome.shtml
* * *I think if you contact Peter he can tell you how to tie the knot.
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Regards,
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * Jeff

[Codeman]

On #1, it's a Mathew Walker Knot (http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=87).* An elegant and simple but effective knot, IMO.

On #2, get some Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf-Cloth. *It's a bit better at salt water corrision than the regular Tuf-Cloth.* It does a good job fending off humidity-related corrision, especially salt water. *Unfortunately, as you're finding out, bead blasted finishes can suffer under high humidity levels.

BTW - Tuf-Cloth is simply a cloth that's treated with Tuf-Glide. I've bought both and use the Tuf-Glide to re-charge the cloth when it's dried out.

[scríbhneoir]

On #1, it's a Mathew Walker Knot (http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=87).


Cool! I've been wondering that also. I tried to re-tie it after I got the Mini so that I could put it on a clip, and I have a knot that will move along the strand. Thanks for the link. :)

[Codeman]

Cool!* I've been wondering that also.* I tried to re-tie it after I got the Mini so that I could put it on a clip, and I have a knot that will move along the strand.* Thanks for the link. :)


You're welcome.

Be sure you push it up to form a cross while tightening it.* One thing I really like about it is that it is easy to un-tie, no matter how tight you get it: just slowly work the cross apart. On the downside, I haven't gotten the hang of tying it so that the loop doesn't have a slight twist to it. It probably just needs a slight reverse twist in it before tying, but I haven't take the time to figure it out.

[wpowell]

Interesting, it is indeed NOT a MWK on my prybaby...it is a double overhand.

Tufcloth is COOL :)

-w



On #1, it's a Mathew Walker Knot (http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=87). An elegant and simple but effective knot, IMO.

On #2, get some Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf-Cloth. It's a bit better at salt water corrision than the regular Tuf-Cloth. It does a good job fending off humidity-related corrision, especially salt water. Unfortunately, as you're finding out, bead blasted finishes can suffer under high humidity levels.

BTW - Tuf-Cloth is simply a cloth that's treated with Tuf-Glide. I've bought both and use the Tuf-Glide to re-charge the cloth when it's dried out.

[kennyj]

Once dried, is the tuf-glide oily or greasy in any way?

I do have some ProGold 2000, which seems like an improved-upon WD40 with fewer aromatics and a reduced tendency to attract dirt, but while it seems usable as a protectant, it's definitely more of a lubricant and as such it's not friendly in places you don't want to be slippery.

I've heard good things about the Marine Tuf-Cloths, especially over at bladeforums where some impressive tests were done with it... I definitely have to see if I can source that stuff locally (though I doubt anyone stocks it reasonably.)

[Codeman]

No.* Tuf-Glide is actually a dry lubricant that is suspended in mineral spirits to simplify application. Once the mineral spirits evaporate, it's completely dry.* The marine grade does leave a thicker layer behind, so you'll probably want to use the regular version.

[Peter Atwood]

Trust me, it is a Matthew Walker Knot, not an overhand knot unless these two knots are one and the same.

TufGlide is good. I also like Militec Lube. As mentioned above, these exotic steels are susceptible to light surface rusting so some periodic maintenance is a good idea especially if you are in that kind of coastal atmosphere. I personally like the patina that is eventually produced over the years on old tools that is a mixture of rust, sweat, grease and finger oils. One thing is for sure, you could bead blast that bar over and over for MANY years, make it look brand new each time and never even put a dent in the amount of metal contained in it. I fully expect them to last for hundreds of years.

[Deaths Head]

Got to wipe that high carbon steel with something like Tuf-Cloth. High quality steels can be quite prone to rust.

[Codeman]

Militec-1 is what I use on my bores and hinges.* Great stuff.* Tuf-Glide seems to do a bit better with corrosion prevention, but that's just from my own experience.* I use TG on all my non-coated blades, and Militec-1 on the pivots.

I agree with Peter on the patina as well.* Once it gets truly broken in, with character marks and such, it takens on a more personal value.* Kind of like a built in history of where it's been and how it's been care for and used. Like this:

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6789/200606145200dscn0725dadscresce.jpg

I hope my PryBaby looks like this 30 years from now.* And I hope I'm still around to enjoy it!

[kennyj]

Thanks for the advice. Tuf-Glide will be ordered soon. Until then, the BOB is staying in a controlled environment... I know it's tough, but it's one of my babies and I want to put the wear on it myself, dangnabbit. :D

[Johnny_Z]

Has anyone else had any problems with rust on their Prybabies? I have a mini (or key chain model) that stays in my pocket (I hardly use it) and there are what appears to be lil rust spots all over the thing.

[Cuso]

Has anyone else had any problems with rust on their Prybabies? I have a mini (or key chain model) that stays in my pocket (I hardly use it) and there are what appears to be lil rust spots all over the thing.
Yep my Crawddady and Prybaby started getting those spots, I live in humid-tropical Puerto Rico, so this is no news to me. I just took the dremel to it and removed the beadblasting , a little 2000 grit sandpaper, WD-40 bath and its looking sweeeeet. I love the satin look, the edges got this nice polished shine. Its all about the maintenance now. Ill up some pictures when I get home.

[Nephiel]

Crawdaddy's and Fine Knurl Whistles seem to be available again. :roof:
Those are gone already...
Seems like Bottlebugs and Area 51 Mini keytons are next, but not yet.



Has anyone else had any problems with rust on their Prybabies? I have a mini (or key chain model) that stays in my pocket (I hardly use it) and there are what appears to be lil rust spots all over the thing.
Mine did. I cleaned them rubbing the spots with a pencil lead, then polished the whole thing with a ScotchBrite scrubber (if you scrub it always in the same direction, you get a lovely brushed steel finish (http://members.optusnet.com.au/brushedipod/)). Then soaked it with oil, and wiped it dry with a cloth. Looks fine so far.

[Peter Atwood]

These steels are all SEMI stainless as all the fine cutlery steels are and bead blasting worsens the tendency to develop spots of surface rust. It's easy to apply a spot of oil once in a while and rub it around or take the soft scotchbrite pad and shine it up. Also it is very simple to rebeadblast at any time.

[Lunal_Tic]

Merged 4 posts above from another thread.

-LT
:gz:

[EDCPHREAK]

Yep, I agree too, Militec is good stuff, a little coating goes a long way. :iagree:

[wildcrafter]

I took some advice from some veteran Atwood collectors when I got my last batch of goodies in and buffed/polished them up with some attachments on my Dremel. I really like their looks better with a shiny finish and it also reduces the surface area where corrosion can occur.

[VT-aroo]

Thank you! that knot has been boggling me for a long while. Search decorative knots looking for one that is similar. No,
no, no, hmmm no. repeat.

The corrosion stuff is helpful as well, though the desert SW is not all that humid.

[Peter Atwood]

There are easy to follow photographic directions on my website under the FAQ section on how to tie the Matthew Walker knot.

[VT-aroo]

:doh: